Nothing works in makeup unless the skin is right does it? You can call a smudged liner wabi-sabi, a faded lip a stain, but there no saving a look from bad skin.
As a makeup artist I'm often working on people I have never met before, who have multiple skin issues. If I'm on a job and their skin isn't flawless then it's my responsibility. You'd think it was the foundation that was the important part but it's actually the skin care which forms the basis of the whole look. Here's my drill:
Products needed - Micellar water, Cream cleanser, Facial oil, Acid toner, Sheet masks, Rose water, Hyaluronic Acid serum, Moisturiser.
Pre-cleanse to remove makeup
Micellar, remover whatever you have. Just get that first layer of makeup and dirt off.
Embrace the benefits of a cream cleanser
Work in a gentle creamy cleanser, really paying attention to any congested or dry areas.
Quick lymph drainage massage
Now the surface skin is cleansed thoroughly, it's time to go further. Use firm circular motion all over the face to bring the blood to the surface of the skin, this helps give your skin that really fresh refined, awake look that we're all looking for. The other massage technique I use focuses on the lymph, I massage quite firmly under the jaw, then when the area is warmed up I drain the lymph by massaging away from the jaw and down the neck. This lymph stimulation can make quite a startling difference to any puffiness that may be present in the face.
Use a flannel to improve blood flow
Saturate your flannel with hand hot water, wring and lay over your face breathing deeply. When the heat goes it's time to gently work the flannel over your face again in soft circular motion. This is going to work in 2 ways by stimulating your skin and also give you a gentle exfoliation treatment. Repeat.
Tighten your pores with a cold compress
Now fill your sink with cold water and throw in a few ice cubes. Hold your flannel over your face. You know that look when you come in from the cold and you look all flushed and bright eyed? This does that.
Fight congestion with liquid exfoliant
Take some acid toner ( I like the little gycolic acid pads) and swipe all over your face paying particular attention to any flaky or congested areas.
Relax with a sheet mask and deep breathing
Saturate a sheet mask with rose water and lie down for 2 minutes. While your at it, take the opportunity for some deep breathing. The extra oxygen will goes straight to your muscles, and tight musculature can make a face appear distorted, so this has real benefits to your appearance.
Spray with mineral water
Make sure that you have plenty of moisture on your skin before we move onto the next step.
Use serum to deliver benefits
I favour hyaluronic acid for most people. It's surprising how many people have dehydrated skin, including oily skin types. It's totally temporary, but it plumps and softens instantly.
Seal and soften with moisturiser
To seal in all your hard work, warm a small amount of moisturiser in your palms and press gently into your face.